They were so big, that we were taking off on different ends - long peaks - and you're just passing each other in opposite directions.
They were so big, that we were taking off on different ends - long peaks - and you're just passing each other in opposite directions.
We've got to be responsible, somebody's got to be responsible for it.
We go by the lighthouse; paddle out. After we got out, we paddled way down to get the biggest peak.
Although December actually set a record high for the number of days of surf averaging 12 feet, it never got to the point where we could actually run the event. It was the same for January.
© 2020 Inspirational Stories
© 2020 Inspirational Stories